At Le Bouillon Chartier in Paris, the recipe for a perfect beef Bourguignon includes beef, carrots, wine, butter, and “coquillettes,” a small macaroni-shaped pasta. The dish is cooked for a minimum of three hours and is priced affordably at no more than 10 euros.
Since its establishment in 1896, Bouillon Chartier has been a popular destination for affordable French cuisine, allowing individuals on a living wage to dine for less than an hour's earnings. However, maintaining cost control has become increasingly challenging for the restaurant.
According to owner Christophe Joulie, the costs associated with producing the beef Bourguignon, including electricity and wages, have risen by 30 to 45 percent over the past five years. To keep the price of the dish, which is approximately $10.80, stable, Joulie has reduced his business margins by up to 20 percent.
Joulie noted, “The price of everything that went up essentially stayed up,” as he observed a long line of patrons waiting outside the eatery in Paris’s Ninth Arrondissement. He emphasized the restaurant's commitment to providing decent meals at reasonable prices.
The challenges faced by Bouillon Chartier reflect broader inflationary pressures across Europe, where inflation in the euro area increased to 2.4 percent in February. Despite a decrease from a record 10 percent following the Russian invasion of Ukraine and pandemic-related lockdowns, prices for essential goods remain elevated.
At Bouillon Chartier, the costs of ingredients have nearly doubled since the pandemic. Beef prices have tripled due to increased feed and fertilizer costs, as well as rising energy expenses for slaughterhouses and transportation. Other ingredient prices, while lower than their peaks, remain high.
Joulie’s electricity expenses surged to €1.5 million annually, up from €500,000 three years ago. Although he negotiated a lower contract last year, it has not compensated for the overall losses. Wages, which account for about 40 percent of the dish's cost, have risen by 15 to 20 percent as employees seek higher salaries to keep pace with inflation.
To manage costs, Joulie orders 1.5 tons of beef weekly for the beef Bourguignon, serving over 4,000 diners daily across three locations. The most expensive item on the menu is steak frites, priced at €13.50, significantly cheaper than similar offerings in other restaurants.
Despite its popularity, Bouillon Chartier faced challenges in the mid-2000s when dining habits shifted towards fast food. The restaurant was on the brink of bankruptcy until Joulie and his father intervened to revitalize it. They refurbished the Ninth Arrondissement location, preserving its historic Art Nouveau decor.
To keep prices low, Joulie has occasionally removed items from the menu, including duck confit, and temporarily suspended the beef Bourguignon due to price spikes. He has maintained the dish's price at €10 for four years, absorbing the financial impact within the family-run business.
Despite the bustling atmosphere of the restaurant, Joulie acknowledged the ongoing effects of inflation on consumer behavior. After a post-pandemic surge, diner traffic has slowed, and customers are ordering less due to the rising cost of living.
Longtime patrons, such as retirees Ali Belcacem and his friend, expressed concerns about the affordability of dining out, noting that their grocery bills have increased significantly. They chose to enjoy a meal at Bouillon Chartier for its hearty and economical offerings.
Joulie remarked on the importance of keeping prices affordable, stating, “High prices are hurting many people.” He emphasized the restaurant's mission to provide accessible dining amidst the ongoing cost-of-living crisis.