Hermann Goering's wine collection, seized by the Soviet army at the end of World War II, remains on display in an underground cellar in Moldova. This includes a gift of 460 bottles presented to former Secretary of State John Kerry during his 2013 visit, which the State Department valued at $8,339.50.
In contrast, President Vladimir V. Putin's wine bottles and photograph have been removed from the Cricova Winery's extensive underground complex following his invasion of Ukraine in 2022. Sorin Maslo, the winery's director, noted that the removal was in response to public inquiries regarding Putin's presence in the cellar.
Putin's collection, a gift from Moldova's former communist president, has not been destroyed but relocated to a sealed-off area of the cellar to avoid further association with him. This action reflects Moldova's deteriorating relationship with Russia, culminating in a recent constitutional change to solidify its alignment with Europe.
The shift in Moldova's wine market began in 2006 when Russia imposed a ban on Moldovan wine imports, citing consumer protection concerns. This was widely viewed as retaliation for Moldova's stance on the breakaway region of Transnistria. Although the ban was lifted the following year, it was reimposed in 2013 after Moldova sought closer ties with the European Union.
As a result, Moldovan winemakers have increasingly turned to Western markets, with exports to Russia dropping from 80 percent to just 2 percent, while over 50 percent now go to the European Union. This transition has led to a focus on producing high-quality wines rather than the sweeter varieties favored during Soviet times.
Historically, wine has played a significant role in Moldova's relationship with Russia, with grape cultivation dating back thousands of years. The trade expanded during the Soviet era, but tensions arose when Mikhail Gorbachev's anti-alcohol campaign led to the destruction of many vineyards.
Despite the challenges, the Cricova Winery remains a prominent tourist destination, housing 1.2 million bottles in a network of tunnels. The winery features a wine shop, a movie theater, and tasting halls, with tunnels named after various wine types. The constant temperature and humidity create an ideal environment for wine storage.
Workers at the winery, primarily women, engage in the meticulous process of turning bottles of sparkling wine to ensure sediment is properly removed. Lybov Zolotko, a bottle-turner, acknowledged the monotony of the job but emphasized its importance in providing stable employment in a country where such opportunities are scarce.
While Cricova has hosted numerous dignitaries, including Putin, the sentiment surrounding these visits has changed significantly. Employees recall a time when relations were amicable, contrasting sharply with the current geopolitical climate.